downtime, finally

With all the traveling & working I've been doing, the moments I've found to explore my own city have been really precious. Chiang Mai has been growing on me, slowly. It’s gradually morphed into an odd mix of foreign & familiar. I’ve started to recognize landmarks & certain faces out & about. I can almost make my way around on my bicycle without a map, & instead I use the glittering temples, orange sunsets, square-shaped moat, & view of the mountain to point me in the right directions. I’m meeting people outside of the house & of the workplace. I have a few semi-regular bars & market stalls, where people also recognize me. I still don't understand the street signs or local newspapers, but I am slowly, slowly, painfully slowly picking up the language basics, vocally at least. I can fake it as a Thai (really!), at least until my casual conversations progress past "hello," "how are you?" "how much is that?" & then inevitably followed by "too expensive! What's my discount?" My bargaining skills are killer now.

Now I know why this city is so special to travelers. It's just one of those places to accomplish some serious chillaxing. It's peaceful. I can think here. I don't think it's a feeling that is easily explained to others who've never visited. But I'll have a go...

My favorite temple: There are 2. The Silver one & the Teak one. I wish I knew their proper names, but I guess I'm too lazy/not cultured enough to find out. But they're gorgeous aren't they?

My favorite Tuesday night activity: Jazz open-mic night at North Gate. "Jazz" interpreted loosely.

My favorite every other night activity: drinking. Duh. Below, Rooftop bar & Reggae st.

My favorite market: The Sunday night market by Thapae Gate, scene of the epic haggling spectacle. Much exhilaration & bloodshed (to the finances, that is). I can get lost for hours & hours here. I end with a foot massage from Jun.

My favorite massage: Jun's place on Moon Muang Road. 200 Baht (about US$6) for an hour "foot massage" but she actually does the whole body & nearly every pressure point. Heaven.

My favorite dinner: Oh there's too many but here's one. Som Tam, or spicy mango salad. It's such a cool process to watch.

My favorite snack: Crispy fried crickets with basil, garlic & chili.

Just kidding. They're not my favorite. But they aren't that bad either. Yeah, I really ate them. They taste like... basil, garlic & chili. With legs.

This place will be hard to leave.